![]() ![]() You rarely get the “rated” flow at a faucet. Practical Sailor’s selection of pumps to be tested was limited, with an exception or two, to those with modest gallons-per-minute ratings and fairly low costs. There is a plethora of pumps, all good healthy competition within company brands and even within manufacturing divisions, multiplied by voltage and sizes meant for one outlet, two outlets, etc., stated in gallons per minute of flow. So, let’s take a look at a dozen or so pumps-both old reliables and new techs-on the market. That’s more than the total of the next three causes-18% motors, 11% diaphragms, and 2.4% belts.) (A Practical Sailor reader survey a few years ago indicated that 43% of pump failures are really pressure switch failures. These new devices are to replace the ever-troublesome pressure switch. There have been some recent developments in freshwater pumps, the most important of which are new switches and a variable-power pump that senses the pressure and adjusts the power to the flow. It happens often enough in a well-plumbed house, but on a boat that loss of pressure is quite pronounced, and usually means the pump is too small to properly serve simultaneously two outlets.Ī third problem: “Hey, don’t stand in that shower all day you’re running the batteries flat.” There are no secrets when people are running water in the middle of the night, and if there’s a leak in the system, it’s on, off, on, off, on, off… You can go bonkers.Īnother not-uncommon occurrence: A just-lathered-up soul taking a shower yelps when somebody starts washing dishes. ![]() We’ll stick to the 12V units here.īig, small, cheap, or expensive, one common denominator of all of these pumps is that they make noise in the confines of the boat-enough noise to be annoying. Sometimes they’re 24V, but that generally means you have a boat big enough to have paid help to worry about mundane things like water. At the heart of freshwater systems aboard boats are 12V pumps. ![]()
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